Couldn't get out of Nashville quick enough, rose at dawn and blazed north over the Lyle A. Fulton Bridge. Had my money, had my technology, keys, bike, stuff, it was a nice little spot, on the southern bank of the Cumberland River, right on the Greenway trail, away from the neon. The town was best in the day, took in a round at the Ted Rhodes Golf Course. Ted was the first African-American professional golfer on the PGA in 1948. The Nashville native was Joe Louis' personal golf instructor, valet, and playing buddy, the Jackie Robinson and Sachel Paige of golf rolled into one. Then the rivers one after another: Barren, Green, Nolin, Salt, Ohio, Muscatatuck, White, Driftwood, Salamonie, Wabash, Little, Kalamazoo, Grand, Looking Glass, Maple, Chippewa, Au Sable, Sturgeon, and finally, the Indian River. Not to mention the creeks, brooks, forks, runs, ditches, and gutters. Water moves in this country, searching for the sea, ready for anything,...