5/12/12

Galveston Coast

almost drowned down there, on the galveston coast, had to go deeper and deeper to make sure a big one was rode. passed on a few, got oily saltwater in my mouth, sunglasses aflutter. purchased a boogieboard that morning, a day after constructing massive and precise castles and underestimating the sun's capability to turn me bright pink. wore a longsleeve shirt and tight hat from then on. spent the morning getting the hang of it and instructing my daughters as they caught wave after wave. then went out deeper to find a wave of my own. my youngest daughter stuck with me for awhile, but halted with great concern as she saw me heading for the big breakers. wanted to ride one all the way in. had two concealed modelos iced down on the beach. a huge umbrella covered our possessions. finally got out to where the big waves broke, having to jump as the waves passed to prevent a face shot. learned this the hard way. then it came. saw it from way back. had a rythym so my confidence was high. took the final plunge and leaped on, my elbows tucked ridgedly on the board. whipped by my youngest, who looked astonished and proud, and felt the speed. riding an uncontrollable wave, with complete control. came to a complete and exhausted stop at the ankle water. turned over and laid flat in the shallow water. wife, friend, and lover of our soul, saw the whole thing.  perched on the beach with a golden tan and floppy hat. she smilingly motioned approval and reached for the camera. youngest came running over, the most excited of all. oldest missed it, distracted by the loss of her shades, but heard the story, in detail, later that night over fish dinners and shrimp.  those modelos went down in a rush, drank from a hotel cup. think of that wave. it's creation, it's maturing, it's final service. indifferent to the seemingly important tasks of our daily actions and uncaring of my ride. this life ain't hard and this life ain't easy. spend your time finding waves, just the right ones, the uncaring ones. ride them all, take drink breaks, and control the uncontrollable.