Motels Only Gonzo 5 -- Veterans Of The Canyon
The trip from Tusayan to the Grand Canyon was short. Our Sunday visit was highly anticipated and our imaginations ran wild as we bundled up for a cool day. Cool weather, cool views, everything was cool. Tusayan seemed like a tourist town without the trashiness, full of locals that seemed genuinely happy we were there. From the folks at the 7 Mile Motel to the barristas at RP's Stage Shop, we felt welcomed. We got an early start and headed north for the final few miles. We rolled up to the park entrance, $35 bucks in hand, well worth the per car entry fee. The attendant greeted us, handing us a map and attractions card and said, "No fees today, have a fantastic visit." Evidently, Veterans Day was free for all. Another reason for thankfulness and gratitude to those who have served. Thanks Vets! We drove on.
Queen was the agreed upon music for this scenic first. The morning was bright, somehow the coolness making everything sparkle like new. We decided to go at it on our own, without the Pink Jeep Tour or the guided hike to the bottom. We had no use for the IMAX movie, no plans for bus shuttling. We would see the 6 million years old Grand Canyon on our own. It first appeared through the trees as we found a fairly remote parking lot, hinting at the enormity of what we were about to witness. Quickly we parked. As we exited the car, we were grateful for the gloves and beanies and extra layers. The wind was whipping as we found the South Rim trail. Then it was seen. Speechless until I muttered "Whoa" and my daughter whispered "Wow". We just stood there. The vastness cannot be described, the true scale is unphotographable, no picture has ever done it justice. Where colors were invented, where deepness has no bottom, where cliffs sat upon cliffs. As far as we could see, to the left, right, down, and forward. When our breath came back, we walked west along the rim. Despite the futilness of capturing the beauty with a picture or video, we tried and tried. Each turn produced unique, incredible sights. Each perch was like a rebirth, inspiring words of magnificence. Old loves didn't matter, they were tossed in the canyon. We ran out of verbal descriptions. Only cuss words were left and that just didn't seem appropriate. God was around.
The geographical realities, the history of the Grand Canyon National Park, the first European explorers, even the Native American stake on this place, we did not care about any of it. This was a feast of the eyes, this was beyond echoes, this was mother earth and father time together in holy matrimony. God's rest was well earned. Jesus! We walked the Southern Rim, surprised at the easy access to death. A slip, a stumble, a reckless risk to get the perfect picture. There seemed no possibility of survival if one fell into the Grand Canyon. In fact, it was kind of refreshing to not sign a waiver. It is what it is, be careful. We took a rock and a pine cone, we skipped the gift shop.
After 5 hours our senses were exhausted and we were hungry. The unexpected complimentary entry freed up funds and we splurged on a steak dinner back in Tusayan. Thanks Vets! My daughter's Sirloin and my New York Strip were perfectly cooked medium well. All the trimmings were included: loaded baked potatoes, beer battered onion rings, al dente asparagus, wild rice pilaf, and a loaf of honey oat bread. We declined dessert. Big E Steakhouse and Saloon, 5 of 5 stars. Back at the motel room we rested, searched our countless pictures, and tentatively planned a return trip at sunset.
The rest was relaxing, the meal was heavy, the urge to stay in for the night was strong. The 7 Mile Motel was cozy. But we were of one mind, we were down for sundown. Again, we went through the gates for free. We found our out-of-the-way parking lot and headed back to the now familiar trail. This time our awe was expected. We were now veterans of the canyon. The late afternoon shadows were spooky, people all around ooohed and ahhhed, the sky was the color of cotten candy. Like jazz music, perfectly imperfect. We saw the sun slip down until it was gone. We were fortunate witnesses of that singular moment at that singular place on this singular planet. We said goodbye to the canyon, knowing it would never leave, never vanish.
Sunday night football featured Cowboys vs Eagles. We each laid in our own bed, reflecting, confessing, and counting our blessings. We missed our family, we wished they could see what we saw, our reports of the Grand Canyon were merely cliches. It must be seen by one's own eyes to understand. We ate Sun Chips and Hersheys Kisses. We laughed and got the giggles. The Cowboys pulled off a close victory at Veterans Stadium in Philly.
We feel asleep, still astonished.